NEW YORK CITY (SBG) — Indoor dining has once again been suspended in New York City as a response to rising hospitalization rates, which means that all of your holiday drinking this season is confined to either your apartment or outdoor seating in potentially very cold weather. While the city's to-go cocktail game is still going strong, there's something to be said for venturing out into the twinkling city lights to sip a hot cocktail out of a Santa-shaped mug, even if the weather dips below freezing. And although a spiked hot chocolate may warm you up a bit, the true key to staying toasty as you dine outdoors is posting up in one of the private greenhouses that have popped up all over the sidewalks.
At Feliz Cocteleria, you'll get the best of both worlds with a menu full of warming winter cocktails and private "mezcal cabins" equipped with heaters and blankets. The holiday pop-up is a seasonal makeover of The Garret Cocteleria, a Pan-Latin cocktail bar in Manhattan's Nolita neighborhood, and the restaurant's beverage program is adding a South American-inspired twist to classic holiday drinks.
"We’re obviously a Pan-Latin cocktail bar, but I’m half-Jew and half-Italian from Manhattan, so it was like, how do I bring concepts of all holiday seasonal aspects into a place that’s savory, slightly sweet, and representative of South American culture?" said Max Stampa-Brown, The Garret's beverage director. He explained that he didn't want a menu that simply screamed "Christmas" or "America," but rather, he aimed to add an unexpected quality to the more familiar tastes of the season.
To achieve his vision, Stampa-Brown drew inspiration from a wide variety of international countries and holiday traditions. The Coquito Poquito is a version of the traditional Puerto Rican Christmas beverage, but it deviates from typical recipes with the addition of Urfa and Aleppo peppers. The Leftovers is an attempt to recreate the flavors of Thanksgiving leftovers, mixing a combination of red bell pepper, orange and cranberry syrup, and cinnamon with cachaça and aperol. And Rocco's Hot Cocoa, Feliz Cocteleria's mezcal-based take on a spiked hot chocolate, incorporates a powdered chipotle pepper blend to give the drink an extra kick. It's also made with a golden rice milk latte, which is poured into the mug tableside.
The creative presentation of the drinks adds greatly to the experience. When you order Rocco's Hot Cocoa, you'll get to blow out a flaming Green Chartreuse marshmallow when it reaches your desired level of crispiness. Another cocktail, called A Lump of Coal, is brought to the table clouded in smoke; you're able to breath in the pleasant aroma of the smoke with each sip of the tequila and Chilean red wine concoction. Several of the drinks arrive in the merriest of containers, like Netzai the Snowman, appropriately served in a snowman-shaped vessel, and the Epazote Hot Toddy, a Mexican-inspired update of the winter staple that uses epazote tea and guajillo-infused bourbon and comes in a jolly Santa Claus mug.
The greenhouses lined up outside of Feliz Cocteleria have been in use since the fall months, but they're currently all dressed up for the holidays with shimmering Christmas lights and garland adorned with ornaments. The bar itself, both the temporarily closed interior and the enclosed outdoor patio hidden behind frosted windows, is an extravaganza of decorations illuminated in a colorful glow. Several not-quite-full-size llamas wearing vibrant trimming of their own guard the entrance. The over-the-top decorations have certainly been getting plenty of attention both from passersby and those in other New York City neighborhoods who have discovered Feliz Cocteleria through press and social media, and so far, the team has stayed even busier than they anticipated.
"There was a kid that came by the other day with his mom, and he was like, 'Adults can be fun too!' And I was like, 'OMG, that’s what it’s all about.' It’s been amazing. It’s been kind of crazy," said Stampa-Brown. In response to the pop-up's success, he also mentioned that it has been inspiring to be able to provide more jobs to those in the restaurant industry during the pandemic.
It's easy to see why the pop-up has garnered so much attention. As many have had to adapt their holiday celebrations this year to ensure the safety of their families and all those around them, it's easy to feel like part of the magic is missing this Christmas, but Feliz Cocteleria is certainly brightening the spirits of customers with the whimsical decor. Already, people have been asking if The Garret plans to transform the space for any future holidays, joking that the llamas should be dressed up for Easter and Halloween. And while the holiday menu may be temporary, Stampa-Brown believes that the greenhouses are here to stay for the unforeseeable future.
"These will likely stay up for the rest of our duration in Manhattan. I think it would be amazing to have the whole block lined with these. They’re so fun, and they get pretty warm," he said.
If you'd like to start making the tough decisions about exactly which cocktails to order ahead of time, you can view the full cocktail menu here. Not a cocktail person? You might be interested in an Argentinian or Chilean wine, or possibly a Mexican beer; you can also do a flight of mezcal, rum, tequila, or Fernet-Branca. To help you soak up all of the alcohol, Feliz Cocteleria also offers a variety of tasty food options, like the house nachos, covered in gooey cheese and topped with a protein of your choice, and tacos.
Given the high demand for the mezcal cabins, the best way to snag your spot is by booking a reservation online. The mezcal cabins can accommodate parties of four to eight guests. If the cabins are fully booked, dining is also available in the sunnily named "Hacienda Sunroom," the llama-guarded outdoor patio that's just as spirited and plenty warm as well. The pop-up, which began in late November, is currently open seven days a week and is expected to run through Jan. 10.